Upkeep and update

I actually get quite a few emails as a result of this blog, which is funny because I rarely get comments. Some of it is kind of weird, but I reply to every one of them (even the guy that wanted to see my shoes.)

Having said that, I also get requests for things to put on the blog, and while I have no objections to them, I’m lazy. I admit it. I will eventually get around to them, but I maintain the right to, you know, not do them quickly.

Of course, back in June I got an email asking me to show a video of me working my treadle. And darts. And I have the video, but I need to severely edit it to get it to a playable state. And since I’m me, it needs to be rerecorded (although I did send the unedited version out somewhat timely to the two that asked).

I understand that darts are one of those things that some people look at and go “WTF!?” I do plan on posting the video for them, and I use a treadle, so it’ll kill 2 birds with one stone. I aim for this to be out in December. It might make it in November, but I won’t promise you anything.

I also got several emails about mentioning I had someone call my house and it being creepy. Let me clear this up. My name is weird. It’s not hard to find me. I don’t speak English when I don’t want to talk. To me this is a really simple thing. And to be honest, I’ve had several people ask for my number to call me for questions since, and I’ve been happy to give it to them.

And that was why I started this blog, and why I’ve kept it kind of simple. The sewing communities that are out there are okay, and some are MUCH better then others, but I wanted to address the novice that doesn’t have places to turn to. It’s daunting to talk to people who have experience when you’re starting out, and it’s hard enough to find someone that will help you. I know, I’ve been there. I still wish I had someone I could use a cell phone on and call and say “Hey, I found this fabric is line green, pink and orange faille. Should I get it?” (Okay I DID get that because I liked it, but you get the idea.) It’s not a put down to the sites that exist, or that I’m a member of, but I do know it is easier to ask someone you sort of know rather then a lot of someones you don’t know for advice.

So no, it doesn’t bother me, and when I bother getting a cell phone, I’ll be happy to give the number to anyone that wants it, same as my house number. I’d rather have someone pick my brain instead of throwing down what they are doing and give up. It’s why I make every effort to answer emails as well. And I don’t really care when you call, I won’t answer right then if I’m busy or sleeping. I figure this is a fair trade.

Weird, yes, but the few that use it makes me feel like I’ve given back to the sewing community in a small way.

The simplicity of the blog was by design. Some of the blogs that do art pieces are pretty, but the months on one project gets boring as hell to read about over and over, so I seldom include those types of projects in my own blog.

Now, knowing there is an interest to this part of sewing, after the first of the year, I do intend on starting to evolve the blog into a hybrid of what I’ve been doing, and more advanced stuff. Part of this is my own interest is going the way of design, and less to commercial patterns. Next year I do plan on having more technical stuff to the blog, and I do intend on making patterns available (albeit rarely) if there is any interest (and it’s simple stuff like aprons and skirts, at first) and based on my ability to find a dress form that is the price I’ll pay.

So no, I’m not abandoning the blog, even if I’ve been having a year of non-sewing, and no I don’t plan on making it about art pieces. I am not looking to change the format, but to show a wider variety of things on the blog.

Elaina

Yay! I’m back!

I had the computer issue last post, and I got my computer in fine. It worked great. For about 10 minutes. Then my monitor blew.

So I had to find another one cheap.

Now I live in the boonies, and my clothing doesn’t get much use because of where I live anyway, so I had to order one online to not pay out the nose for one. So I finally got it, and here I am back. In which event, I had to work, and work, and work. Did I mention work?

So I’m working (and technically I should be now) but I lost all my links in the meantime. So leave a comment with a link to your blog so I can re-add to my blog roll. I notoriously read about 100 blogs daily/weekly and I have 14 in my list, because I just don’t use an RSS feeder, I save them in folders on FireFox. I just got so used to the links being a one click, I forgot the names, so if you have a sewing blog I might like, or have one and read, link to it so I can go visit. Just that easy.

As to sewing, my room looks like a hurricane hit it. In which is means I need to, like, clean my room so I can sew. I have replaced my drafting book again (Dorothy Moore this time) and am just working on them in miniature. I don’t want to make anything from it, just crash course the skillz into shape.

And that is what I’m doing. For some reason my dress form is broke, and I’ve lost weight so I need to actually buy a medium now (instead of the large I have) and the dials no longer work on it to be useful to anyone else. Then my drafting triangle broke, which doing things small is not so drastic, but if I want to make patterns for me, I’ll need to get that replaced sooner or later.

In the meantime, this is my costume for the Alabama Ren Faire feast (I worked with the kids for the Faire, so I did not wear this there):

The top is the chemise from any of the Civil War patterns from Butterick, that I cut out about 10 inches from a size 14 and made hip length. The vest is a simple Butterick costume. While the top is pretty, and easy, I really need a corset, so I don’t have to wear a bra with it. The skirt is from Vogue 2810 and I have to say this actually came out much better then I anticipated. I don’t have a need for it again, but if you do its simple and recommended. All if this was stuff in my stash (patterns and fabric) and was sort of a last minute assassin/prostitute look. I think I may wind up with something different next year with the same idea.

So there you have it. My October’s worth of sewing.

A sort of Sewing update

The really crazy thing is, I have been sewing/designing around these parts. Matter of fact, I’ve spent a good 40 or so hours actually doing stuff last week.

Not that it’s a huge secret or anything, but it hasn’t been for me, hence I won’t post it, so the blog remains empty. It did turn out well, and I’m happy with the results, even if I did it blind and didn’t measure my mom.

Measure, Measure, Measure. Trust me, it helps. Lots. (Unless of course they won’t let you, and then figure out if they need to go a size or two up or down. Trust me.)

All of that…and my computer died. Not a big deal so much (thanks eBay!) but I have been without a computer for a week. I’m on my dad’s to work, and play to be honest, and I should have it fixed about the time I start sewing again. Which is like Thursday. Don’t ask WHY Thursday, just bask in the Thursday-ness of it. I will make a post of what I’m doing, even if it’s technically dull and boring and not like, a garment.

I did the ren thing, and Thurs. is the last meeting until next year. Which means my time is a lot more free and my computer will quit giving me fits so I will actually, you know, use it more.

Elaina

“How Much Fabric Giveaway”

There’s a contest here that you really need to enter. Gwen from After the Dress has these really neat cards here for sale.

What they do is give you a pocket guide to figuring out the yardage to buy to make clothing, without having to have a particular pattern in mind. Gwyn worked really hard on them and they’re being given away from one of the gals that does SewRetro.

LOL, enough name dropping yet?

I so want to buy one of these, but alas it’s, as Gwen says, in my queue after new glasses, contacts, holidays…yes all that. Go and enter, though. These cards are divine.

Great Googly Moogly.

Yeah. I suck. I haven’t sewn squat.

Several things happened to prohibit this.

A)Yard work. I mow/weedeat/tend to nearly an acre and a half of almost solid yard. If you have been anywhere NEAR Tennessee, or Alabama for that matter, stuff GROWS here. I’m trying to get it down to a manageable amount of time without killing my hands.

The Arrows show where my hand has been healing for 2 days so far. Not much, but it is painful.

B) I have the Alabama Ren faire coming up. I also have dance classes with this, which eats up my Fridays. I did cut my skirt and pin fit it (thank God I used a stretchy fabric, I don’t need a zipper). I had to wait for my lace to come in from Ebay for my shirt.

C)Ebay. There is a lot of crap on there I don’t need, but want.

D)COPA. I got with some other ladies for a group membership and it STILL kills my time.

D)My ruler broke. I had to get one off Ebay and got it in today.

E)The weather. I have been unhappy with my weight and so I started walking the poodle at night. By the time I get home, work, I don’t care if I sew or not. I’m too sore. But it’s beautiful outside, so I spend a lot of time out there.

Some of these intermix. I couldn’t design anything because my ruler broke, and I want to make some of the things from COPA but couldn’t…because my ruler broke (now it’s because I need a damn sharpie, and my kid sister stole mine). And the weather is nice, and I don’t want to be in the house.

I’m sure I’ll get out of it, and start sewing again soon. I have to, I mean, I DO need a costume, but I hate the way I look (and I am doing something about it, since I practice what I preach), and I don’t want to mess with making clothing that I’ll hate because I want to lose some weight.

In any event, I have to get my skirt done soon because I have to draft a vest (if the gal will send me my grommet tape already) and I have to make a chemise. In like a week and a half.

Elaina

Wow.

I still have that dress, another one, a suit and a shirt sitting here to finish.

I’m bad. I know.

Then a weird thing happened. The Alabama Renaissance Faire.

If you live close to me, or in Florence, Alabama, then this faire is not a secret. What is though, is the fact my mother and a family friend helps out with it, and I get dragged all and sundry to help them. Which technically means *I* am part of it, but I don’t consider myself to doing it. I just do it for my mother since she is unable.

Right now, my weekends are filled with dance classes (seriously) and meetings for the feast and festival and that’s all kicking into full swing. Mom wants to do the costume workshop (which means I will too), and I’m not exactly sure what the friend has me doing. I know I got told to expect to work maintenance for the faire, and to plan on working all day because she’s volunteered me to high heavens. On top of which my mom’s red hat club is meeting the Wed. before the feast and I have been roped into helping for that. (The schedule for this is insane for me: Wed: Red Hat. Thurs: Dinner for the helpers, if I go. Fri: Set up the feast. Sat: set up the tables and go to the feast. Wait a week…and then I get to do the faire Thurs-Sun. the next week.)

And I have no costume. I do, however, get to be an assassin, which is AWEEE-SOME!! In the meantime, my mom’s making hankies for her Red hat thing, I need a costume and she needs to make at least 3. While the sewing isn’t all on me, I do spend a lot of time ironing, cutting and being her legs for her stuff. I have managed to draft my “corset”, in the loosest term, because a)I’m not making one, my long line bra will work just as well with a corset/vest thing b)time in getting everything and c)I wear a bra. Corsets don’t lend to that, and I’d prefer not to flash the public and have support. My girls thank me.

I do need to get my skirt done if nothing else so I can figure out how to dance in a train. This slim skirt is the pattern I’m using , and I made the corset for a wedding of mine, and hated it (which is why the one I’m making is a vest-type). Not very medieval, but I’m going for creepy, not period.

Sewing? Sure. I have a lot to do.

The dress…it’s still not done, or, Sewing vintage Style.

You’ve seen glimpses of this dress for at least a month now. Last time, I believe I had to put sleeves in it (and I still do, now I have to sew them in), and hem it. I still have these things to do. I also have to redo the zipper, and this makes my 6th time at putting it in. The zipper was fine the last 3 times, I wasn’t happy with it, and truth be told, I’m not much happier with it now, but I think I will be.

One thing when working with vintage patterns is to remember you sometimes have to use techniques that were done back then.

This pattern is from 1967-69, depending on whom you want to believe. CoPA has it at 1967, the date on the envelope from the woman that made it was 1969.

Why is this date even remotely important? It’s not because the dress is out of style (because it’s not really), or to say “Look at me, I made a vintage pattern” (because I don’t care), but because the techniques in the dress construction was a lot different then newer ones.

I learned to sew at a time when they set sleeves into a garment, which means we sewed the side seams, pinned and bated the sleeves, and sewed the whole thing. Generally, I STILL do this when inserting sleeves, because it’s how I learned it. I AM a product of the 80s and 90s, and while my mom sews, I largely learned all this on my own from patterns.

It also wasn’t the way women in the 60s did it. It took me about 10 minutes to realize, hey, wait, maybe I need to do this the way they used to do it.

That was inserting the sleeves flat. Did it work? Much better then setting the sleeves. They actually fit now. Do I do a good job at it? No, and that’s why I seldom do it. It simply is I learned a different technique. I haven’t actually sewn the sleeves in on this dress yet, since I had to remove stitching along the seams of the sleeves and the dress. I should note, too, that the zipper was a casualty of a modern technique.

Why was this of any importance? Sometimes you have to go back and do it the way everyone else did it. Sleeves are one of those things that seem to go smoothly in different eras doing it different ways. Zippers too seemed to be more involved (which isn’t the right word for it really) where in the 60s nicer dresses seemed to used a lapped zipper technique. I do realize I could have done a flat or an invisible zipper (and did, several times) but this is part of why I wasn’t happy with it.

My mother learned to sew in the 60s. Still to this day, she ignores the pattern directions and adds sleeves then sews a side seam, as well as lapping her zippers.

Vintage isn’t always about sewing just from a pattern from a bygone era. Sometimes it’s using the old techniques too.

Patch Pocket Tutorial

I had an email asking me how I did pockets on garments. To that I reply: badly.

However, I did take pictures the last time I sewed (and didn’t post until almost a week later, but I did answer the email itself).

I am seriously anal about weird things. Pockets happen to be one of them. This makes a 1-2 time shot at a pocket template. I have yet to find anything that works long term for my pocket needs (although shirt pockets I have about 10 of the same template lying around, both for a pattern and finishing). With no further ado:

Materials: Cut out pocket, according to the pattern. Scrap cardboard (I smoke, and use it from a carton. Cereal boxes also work since it’s similar stuff). Paper scissors. Ruler and pencil. Something to make a curve, I used the lid off a bottle of oil that was thrown away.

Step one:

Place pocket onto a bit of cardboard larger then what you need. Trace around the pocket to get the shape. Remove fabric.

Step 2:

Here you can see I draw crappy. You can see the outer lines being the pocket, and the inner lines become the fold lines. I also added a curve with the lid. The actual template is done. RTW patch pockets generall have a 2:1 ratio, meaning the top is twice side fold in measurements. Most patch pockets, especially on jackets, seem to do a 2″:1″. I followed suit. In addition, I also squared off my lines (using a ruler) and made a curve afterward.

Step 3:
I didn’t take a picture. I measured the top of the pocket 2″ down, pressed that fold well, and because of wanting it to drape somewhat smoothly there, I added bias tape to finish it. I also cut the template out on the new lines I made.

Step 4:

Insert template onto pattern piece. You cannot see the 1″ mark on the sides in pencil there (it’s there, trust me) and I already pressed the top down, and lined it up. My side lines were about 1″ long so I could see them and line them up properly. I then pinned it carefully into place.

Step 5:

Press. I usually start with corners, generally because it’s the easiest thing to mess up and therefore I do it first.

Next, I press the sides in. This is why I use a template: I am not guessing here, I’m simply using the cardboard as a pressing guide.

Finally, I press the bottom, and then I pin it into place carefully.

I also turn the pressed sides back in, and pin this as well (and yes, you will pin through cardboard here). At this point I pull down the top and pin that down too.

Step 6:

Turn the whole thing over and press well. Press again. Use lots of steam. Let it cool down some. Why? Because I find it’s easier to make it keep it’s shape if it’s a little cooler.

Step 7:
It’s the same pic as step 6, just remove the pins and cardboard, and repress back into shape.

Step 8:
Repeat for all other pockets.

Step 9:

Ta-da! A finished pocket on the garment!

You know, this took me much longer to do this then it did to actually do all of the steps. It’s not particularly hard to do pockets, even without this method, but I do get matching pockets this way.

So why don’t I follow a pattern’s instructions? I don’t like them. They make bulky, terrible looking pockets. I have yet to see a RTW garment double fold in a side, or bottom, of a pocket. They don’t lay smooth, they’re hard to deal with when you’re putting them on, and it’s more work then it’s worth. As long as your fabric does not unravel there is no reason to finish the inside of the pocket, except the top. The template came about simply because I once made pockets, that while technically were pretty pockets, were off from each other slightly. (Would anyone of noticed? No, they wouldn’t have. I pointed it out to several people after the fact that went “Oh, you’re right.”) Even if my pockets are off in this method, they do match.

I typically make a new template for every pocket I use. I also let the pocket template dry/cool down between uses, if I’m using it multiple time, because cardboard doesn’t like steam.

See? Not hard at all!

Elaina

“Real” sewing isn’t in the details.

I am of the opinion that anytime you sew anything, it’s “real” sewing (although I get what a lot of people mean by that). Real sewing, in this case, is the garment you spend a lot of time with, make muslins, work and worry over until it’s perfect. In short, the garment that is what most people associate with sewing. Things like Chanel jackets and prom dresses. Advanced sewing. That mecca of being able to produce anything you see, and have it look good, ’cause some bloggers do exactly that.

I have a lot of people new to sewing reading this blog. I am very glad it’s helping/entertaining those of you that are new, and happy that those of you that have emailed me asking questions are comfortable enough to do so. I try and make sewing as user friendly as I can, and therefore I omit a lot of things I do on a garment (my “insta-sew” stuff has some ridiculously tedious hand work), or sometimes downplay the time/details involved, not because I want to scare you off, but because I don’t think in hard/easy terms. Sewing is a matter of taking what’s before you and doing it in bite sized chunks until it’s done. Every step finished is instant gratification. Trust me. You make 28 darts, and have them all ready to go, you’re instantly satisfied that the damn thing is done (and yes, I’ve made entire outfits with that many darts).

It would probably surprise most of you to know I’m as likely to make a garment that’ll take weeks to produce as I am something I can do in an evening. There really isn’t much difference. Just a time difference.

Take both of the sleeves in these garments.

I drafted sleeve A to fit into that garment. Sleeve B came with a pattern, and technically it’s the same raglan sleeve. Why isn’t Dress A finished? I have to do lining, and I haven’t bothered yet. So far I’ve spent about 6 hours in tweaking to get the fit just so, 4 in sewing, cutting, darting (and the sleeves are cut and sewn darts in them) and about 3 in drafting/testing the sleeve. Before I EVER got to the lining or a zipper. I have about 4 hours left. It’s not particularity difficult, it’s time intensive. Dress B took me a grand total of 4 hours from start to finish. Technically, they’re the same dress, both are shifts, both have raglan sleeves, the kick is in the details, in this case fit.

All sewing is really like that. Sleeves set in in the same way in Dress A as they do in Dress B. Darts are darts, hems are hems. Both patterns are “very easy”. Fabric choice here has a lot to do with the “difficulty” (brocade vs. a cotton/poly/spandex blend). I can, and do, work with both as you can see, but one requires a different touch to it then the other. And yes, fabric can indeed make an easy project go to more time involved. Lining too, adds to it. One is considered “real” sewing due to fitting and drafting, and one is considered instant sewing, mostly because of time. But really, this is done to show you, it’s pretty much the same dress, and while one was easier to sew for me, it really makes no difference on the skill…just the time. Does one dress have a more “real” feel on my body? No, one is a more casual dress is all (and it wouldn’t be if I used silk on Dress B instead of what I did use).

This dress is another one I’ve got banging around.
It doesn’t have a “level” on it. For 1967 when the pattern was done, it was probably “average”. This is another time intense garment, and frankly, it’s kind of stupid I’ve not finished it. I have to put the sleeves in (which are actually sewn) and hem it (which you can see is marked) and add some details to it, which is sewing buttons that have no purpose. If I sat and did it, I’d have a grand total of about 2 hours doing this. Why this became a time thing was, again, fit. The little inset to it too was a little on the time part because I had to have it just so. I spent about 10 hours just sewing/fitting this dress. (And yes, a sewing dummy would very likely cut down on my fitting times.) Fabric choice, again, helped on this one, I used a cotton sateen, it would have been murder in anything drapey.

A friend commented she liked the trials and tribulations of sewing, it made it more “real” for her. To me, I didn’t like the sleeves of the brocade dress, so I changed it. That was it. I don’t consider this a “trial” so much as I considered it what I wanted to do. When I get it done, I’ll very likely mention the fact that I did it, but it’s no less real then the shorts I’m drafting from a CoPA pattern.

I have gotten several requests to show more of the construction, though, so I’ll try to do more of it in the future. The Vogue dress…well, it’s not hard, really. It’s a little involved, yes. I also have the attention span of a gnat, and will work on several projects at once, so it’s why I have some sitting around that are in various stages of finished. (Need, too, has something to do with it. I don’t need either of these dresses right now.) Could a new sewer sit and do these? Yes. A new sewer with enough patience and a seam ripper can make anything.

If, in the end, you have something you’ve constructed well, from a button to a simple skirt to a prom dress, you’ve done “real” sewing. A seam is a seam, a dart is a dart. The more “real” sewing skills, like drafting, are simply something learned as an extension of these basic sewing skills. Don’t let anyone ever fool you that it’s not a basic set of skills (that you can learn, too), even if you have to break it down into parts to make it easier for you.

Elaina

Eye candy of the sewing Soul

COPA is the Commercial Pattern Archive, a product of the University of Rhode Island. What does this have to do with eye candy?
Well..

They are graciously offering a free week trial to their database. Go here.

You know all this means is I’m not going to sew until it’s over or I quit drooling over my keyboard over here*. It’s a really interesting look in nearly 50 THOUSAND patterns from the 1800s to 1990s and many of them you will never see except for here. I realize a lot of you aren’t about to sew vintage, and that’s totally cool, but it sure shows you how fashion really really recycles.

And if you ever wanted to see a flapper coat, they have around 50 for your viewing pleasure.

*I must note too, that I’m getting roped into Spring cleaning my mom’s house, so I likely wouldn’t be sewing much anyway.

I urge you to go and check it out, and if you’re interested in it, I strongly urge you to sign up. CoPA is a great place saving a disposable history.

Elaina